Sunday, May 25, 2014

Painting Plague Marines - Version 1

So a WGC member asked me for the recipe for how I painted the rank and files for my Nurgle Chaos Marines. Here's how I did it and some other various notes you will need to know before you follow this "recipe". (I hate that word).

Hey all. So recently I've been working on a Nurgle list of 2000k. The reason I did this list was to have minimal models to carry around when traveling to play (trying to keep the army in one KR case) and to get it on the table fast so I can just play some chaos.

I've posted some pics of the WIP which won't be completely done by the time I want to throw down with it but it's enough to play and record some batreps without people crying about an army not being painted.

Production Line Set Up
So the question posed is the recipe of how I painted my rank and file. Ok, disclaimer.  When I'm rushed to put something on the table, I will just "get it done" quick and then go back once in a while to clean up, improve and embellish the paint jobs.

In this case, I production lined the Plague Marines at 14 at a time. Takes about 3 or 4 hours so I was able to do them in two batches and a batch of 4 Chaos Bikers in about a days time.

That being said, taking what I did here and spending more time and at one at a time will probably produce you way better results.

I also don't have step by step photos. Sorry. Just going to have to go the steps here.  I'll make a video on it later I guess.

I'm using Badger's Minitaire Paints throughout unless otherwise noted.

  1. I primer the figures with Badger's Stynylrez Black.
  2. I base coat with Rotten Flesh (D6-160)
  3. I undertone with Cracked Leather (D6-116).  Yes, I'm reversing the shadow tones. I don't know how else to explain it to you other than we're using modulation effect on shadows instead of on highlighted blends. Don't ask. It works for me.
  4. I mid-tone with Rotten Wood (D6-159).
  5. I highlight with Mummy (D6-113) very lightly.  I mean just shooting the surface in an angle to have the paint pick up on the raised surfaces.
  6. I then seal with Future Floor Shine (this is my gloss coat). I wait 20 minutes with the models in front of a fan (In LA, it's around 80f)
  7. I oil wash with Burnt Umber.  Wait half an hour (drying in front of a fan and once in a while putting a blow dryer to it a couple of times) and do a clean up. Leave it to dry again for about 20 minutes.
  8. I then seal with Future Floor Shine again. Same deal.
  9. I oil wash with Burnt Sienna.  Wait half an hour (drying in front of a fan and once in a while putting a blow dryer to it a couple of times) and do a clean up.

     This time, you want to make sure that the Sienna and Umber kinda mingles with the model. Make em dance. Leave it to dry again for about 20 minutes.
  10. Now, NO seal yet. I take the oil color Buff and I highlight the model with it.  Basically, dry brush with the oil as you would with paint. Most all of the oil should be wiped off your brush.. Just do it VERY lightly.

    When you come to a point where you need more "color" to an area, like say the top of the head or the curve of the shoulder pad, lightly DAB the brush in that area and spread it around.

    Note you will also get some Sienna on the brush with the Buff on it. That's ok. It's even better. As long as the Sienna isn't completely apparent.

    If you have never worked with oils like this, you're going to have to practice a little.

    Wait for it to dry again. 20 minutes in from of a fan in a warm room.
  11. Seal with Future Floor Shine again. Same deal.
  12. At this point, I whip out the Ancient Bone (D6-112) and just quickly do some top highlights.  Nothing extreme. The extrusions on the face, edges of the should pad rims, edges of the open wounds... etc.
  13. I seal with Liquitex Matte Coat. Wait 10 minutes.
  14. Then just finish it off. Eyes I use Angelic Blood (D6-131).  Black on the Power Armour Joints.  1:2 black/rotten flesh for the bolters and knives and then dry brush it with Vallejo Gun Grey (71.072) and hard line with the same color. I also used Gungrey for the hoses that pops out here and there.
  15. Complete by giving it another quick gloss coat and then a matt coat. 

That's it! If I were to go back, I'd feather in some areas where the blends didn't meet as well since I couldn't see it when I was doing it in the line with a brush and clean some some areas.

On the bikers, I pretty much did the same except I just dry brushed all the engine parts with GunGrey and painted the rotting goop with Pestilence Flesh (D6-158).  The metal parts like the converted armour plates or the symbol I used the rusting technique I use in this video:



  1. Do you spray the Future coat? If so, how much do you thin it, and with what? I've always been concerned with thinning clear coat as it gets slightly cloudy

    1. Yeh, airbrush the future. I shoot it straight out of the bottle. No thinning :)

    2. The key is multiple thin coats as well to avoid build ups

    3. OK cool. I would have thought that straight from the bottle it would be too thick?

    4. Na, future is pretty thin stuff